San Francisco super-chef Elizabeth Falkner opened Krescendo not so long ago in Boerum Hill. Opening a Neapolitan pizza place in Brooklyn can be a double-edged sword — sure, we Brooklynites seem to have an insatiable appetite for the stuff, but we are a very fickle audience. At first glance Krescendo gets a lot right; a pizza oven imported from Naples, for example, and local seasonal ingredients. One of the specials on the day of our visit featured turnips “picked this morning” (according to our server). Service was a little off (our server did not visit our table for a long while after we’d finished all of our food), but that’s to be expected from a new restaurant. Of course the ultimate arbiter of a pizza place is, of course, the pizza. And that’s exactly where the experience fell flat for me.
I got the Margherita, the pie I get to test any new Neapolitan joint. Despite an impressive amount of charring, the crust was surprisingly flavorless, and the sauce was flat tasting. This pizza is not at the level to compete with the Brooklyn Neapolitan greats (in my mind Roberta’s and Paulie Gee’s. I also tasted a white pie, the Bianca, which was slightly better — lots of ricotta, some kale, and some garlic. Unfortunately it too was let down by the flavorless crust. Still and all, I hope Krescendo can rise to the level of my other Brooklyn faves.
Krescendo — 364 Atlantic Ave