I wrote about Roberta’s roughly a year ago, and I haven’t been back since. Ever since they got reviewed in the NY Times, and then opened their uber-fancy prix fixe restaurant Blanca, things at Roberta’s have been getting out of hand. I’ve heard tell of two hour waits, and unfriendly service. It seemed like all of the press was going to the restaurant’s head (if a restaurant can be said to possess such a quality). When my friends suggested meeting at Roberta’s on a Saturday night, I mentioned to them that I wasn’t brave enough for Roberta’s on the weekend. But we settled on an early meet-up, so even though there were eight of us we figured we would be in good shape. We ended up waiting for an hour before being seated.
Somehow I got it into my head to try the pasta instead of the pizza; I love their pizza, but I’ve eaten a lot of it and I’d heard the non-pizza food was also quite good. The seasonal pasta on offer was agnolotti, filled with pureed English peas and kunik, a combination cow and goat’s milk cheese. As soon as I ordered it I regretted my decision. I knew, I just knew that the portion would be too small for me, and I spent the next 20 minutes or so first regretting my decision, and then deciding to order a pizza as well. Sure enough, the plate of pasta arrived and it was as small as I had imagined. I placed an order for the “Zucchini Contest” pizza and tucked into the pasta. It was delicious, no doubt about it. The sweetness of the peas and the salty tang of the cheese was a great mix, and in a master stroke there were julienned sugar snap peas and pea shoots on top. I could have eaten about 30 more of them.
Then my pizza arrived, and I was very glad I had ordered it. There were large slice of zucchini, obviously, but also charred leeks and garlic, and just enough chile flakes to make it slightly spicy. Best of all the pizza was sprinkled with breadcrumbs, lending a great crunchy element to the pie. And of course the crust at Roberta’s is impeccable.
So sure, I didn’t need to order two dinners that night, but I consider it a lesson well-learned. I won’t be ordering anything other than pizza at Roberta’s again.
Roberta’s — 261 Moore Street