Memories of Scrambled Eggs

When I think of scrambled eggs, I have two very different memories. The first is of my grandfather; he had a very specific way he liked his scrambled eggs. He kept a bag of frozen chopped onions in the freezer. When he wanted scrambled eggs he would have my grandmother cook up the eggs with those onions with a ton of garlic powder. He liked the eggs cooked to death, super hard and dry. My other memory is of when my sister and I were in Japan back in 2003. One morning we had breakfast in our hotel, and I ordered scrambled eggs. What arrived at the table was a plate of yellow liquid; it was as if they had waved a lit match in front of raw scrambled eggs and declared then cooked. What I have found over the years is that I prefer my eggs done somewhere in between — still moist, but with firm curds. What follows is a quick recipe for making summery scrambled eggs the way I like them. My secret is to use a lot of butter. Not only does butter taste good, but when you fold the scrambled eggs into the melted butter it coats the inside of the curds.

Melt some butter in a non-stick pan. Add some sliced onions and season them with salt and pepper. Cook them until soft. Add some sliced summer squash, season those, and cook them until they start to brown. Then add some chopped squash blossoms, and cook until they are wilted. Add your eggs to a bowl. I suggest three eggs per person. Season the eggs and scramble lightly, I don’t like them over-mixed. I’ve seen chefs on television who use a blender to scramble them, which supposedly makes them fluffier because it incorporates air into them. That’s not for me, though. Add the eggs to the cooking squash, and use a for to gently fold the mixture all together. It only takes a minute of two for the eggs to start to solidify. Finally, turn off the heat just before they get to the texture you like, as the eggs continue to cook for a bit even off the heat. They’re perfect on their own, or stuffed into a roll.

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