Until last week, the last time I ate at Glasserie was almost a year ago. My friend Molly was in town, and another friend got a whole group of us reservations at the chef’s table in the kitchen. It was a very good meal, though I never ended up blogging about it. About six months later it was announced that chef Sarah Kramer, whose cooking I’d enjoyed so much on my two visits to Glasserie, was parting ways with the restaurant. I don’t know that I was deliberately avoiding the restaurant after that, but it did feel almost like re-visiting the place would somehow be… disloyal. But I heard that the food was still really good there, so when my parents wanted to meet up for brunch last week I decided to give the new Glasserie a shot. I’m glad I did, because the meal was fantastic.
Glasserie serves a sort of modernized Middle Eastern/Israeli inspired cuisine, but I’m not sure where the inspiration for my dish came from — scrambled eggs with celery root, pine nuts, and mushrooms. The egs were perfectly cooked, soft and fluffy, and the celery root puree underneath lent an unexpected but wonderful sour sharpness to the dish. There was also a ring of fried dough, some crunchy mushrooms, a few pine nuts, and it was topped with an herb salad. It sounds like a crazy mix of flavors and textures, and I guess it was, but somehow they all worked together beautifully. The only element that felt out of place was a piece of raw carrot, for some reason mixed in with everything else, and which lent nothing to the dish. I also tried some of my mom’s meal — mushrooms, roasted until almost charred, on a puff pastry crust and topped with a fried egg. The intensity of the mushroom flavor was great. Even my dad, who is pretty hard to please, really enjoyed his lamb flatbread sandwich. I still have a soft spot in my heart for the era of Sarah Kramer, but it’s good to know that Glasserie is still putting out great food.
Glasserie — 95 Commercial St