Revisiting L&B Spumoni Gardens

L&B Spumoni Gardens, which has been serving their square pizzas in Brooklyn since the 1950’s, is famous for their slices where the cheese is baked under the sauce. I went there once, many years ago, and my impression at the time was that it was good but not really pizza. More of a bread-cheese-sauce casserole. I didn’t even realize they had a whole inside, sit-down restaurant with plenty of non-pizza options, until we met up with my family to celebrate a birthday. I ordered a side-slice as an appetizer, wondering if time had changed my opinion. It had not — I still think it’s good, but I don’t crave it the way I crave really good Neapolitan-style pizza. I also ordered an eggplant parm hero, and I added the optional broccoli rabe. The eggplant was fine but the broccoli rabe was fantastic. It was perfectly cooked, bright green and still a little crisp, and saturated with garlic. It was so good that Carolyn ordered a side of broccoli rabe after tasting it, and we agreed it was the best thing on the table. L&B is a little out of the way for me, and I wouldn’t call it destination-worthy pizza, but if you’re eating int he dining room be sure to grab some of that broccoli rabe.

L&B Spumoni Gardens — 2725 86th St

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